make sure you're on your neocities dashboard before reading.
go to edit the "style.css" file. this is NOT HTML. this is a different coding language.
when editing a page for your website, you may have noticed that by default, it calls for "style.css". obviously, this is how your website will look. however, you can always make a new style file if you want a certain page to look different, then you'd change what file your page calls for.
this is just what i have in my style file. you can change background and link colors however you please.
you can also see the font family i use. this part is going to be a little more complicated now.
find the font you want to use. you're on your own for this part. try experimenting with multiple fonts to see how they look.
when you've found your fonts, go to this website here and upload your font(s) with the default settings. open up the zip file when you're done and take out the file with the ".wobff" extension. this is your new font, optimized for use on your website.